Frequently Asked Questions - Softeners
How much salt does
a softener hold? The salt storage capacity of
a brine tank is calculated based on the solid salt above the brine
platform with the tank filled with solid salt to with 6 inches of the top
plus the salt contained in the saturated brine (2.6 lbs of salt / gallon).
See catalog section
A better question might be
How much salt
is required for the initial charge of a brine tank? Plan on adding about half of
the listed salt storage capacity on the initial charge.
How often will
the brine tank need refilling with salt? Assuming the worst case of a
minimum six regenerations in storage after the tank is full of salt and
assuming you regenerate each softener each day, plan on refilling the
brine tank every six days for a simplex, three days for a twin, two days
for a triplex and two days for a quad. One way to avoid bags of salt is to
How do I know if
the softener is working? If the water is soft, the
system is using salt and the controller display is readable, the softener
is probably working.
Who do I call if my softener,
filter, RO or other water treatment equipment is not working? Contact the Water King
representative that sold you the system
or the representative in your area. OR
How do I get a manual?
Manuals are available in the
section of our website, they are on the
Water King CD, and they are included with every system we ship. If you
cannot find the manual that you need, Contact the Water King
that sold you the system
or the representative in your area. OR
How long does the resin last? If you are taking a
softener off line and it is more than 5 years old, replace the resin.
Water King has
resin packs. Don't
forget to order internals
incase one gets broken during the rebed.
Resin life varies with use and water quality, particularly the chlorine
content. The most used system I am aware of has a Triplex 750 softener
that regenerates each vessel three times per day running 24/7. They
experience increased head loss and increased hardness bleed at about 3
years. We generally say resin life is 5 years under normal circumstances.
An easy way to check the resin is to look at it under a microscope.
Cracked beads are readily observed. It is not uncommon for resin to last
for more than five years.
I have limited flow to backwash and my system will not
draw brine. What could be the cause?
All softeners have a “Backwash Flow control” located in the drain line.
Smaller systems have this attached to the control valve itself. while larger
systems may have a separate fitting plumbed into the drain line. This
piece typically will contain one or more rubber “flow buttons”, which
regulate the backwash flow rate.
It is not uncommon for rust, pipe scale, or other foreign matter to become
lodged in one or more of these buttons, reducing the flow rate to the
This will result not only in incomplete backwashing and rinsing, but in
reduced or lack of brine draw. Always check for full and unrestricted
flow to drain during backwash and brine cycles.
The photos below show a piece of the TM-II piston lodged in one of the
flow control buttons.
How do I
ensure that the Taskmaster-III piston sensor is positioned correctly?
Unlike the older series 180 and 182
brass valves that you may be familiar with, the 150 valve has no micro
switches or cam to adjust or get out of adjustment. These valves are
controlled by a pair of LED sensors and a notched wheel.
Basically, there is mo adjustment required or available for these
being said, if you believe that you are having positioning issues, there
are several points that you might check:
Make sure that the set screw on the
drive link is securely tightened to the shaft. Any play here will
affect the piston "timing". This, or worn piston seals, is the most
common source of brining problems.
Although technically not adjustable,
there is a very small amount of movement possible in the notched
wheel. We have seen cases where over tightening of the screw will
cause it to shift just enough to have an effect on the brining
position. This is corrected by loosening the screw, then rotate the
wheel counter-clockwise until any slack is removed. Then while holding
the wheel to prevent it from turning, snug up the retaining screw.
This will only give you maybe one degree or so of change, but this is
sometimes all it takes to make a difference.
There is also a very small amount of
movement available of the LED mounting plate.
Again, under normal conditions, no
piston/cam adjustment should ever be required on these valves, and no
provisions have been made for any. All valves are completely
performance tested before leaving the plant and should need no attention
for some time. The above steps should only be required in the rare cases
where tolerances have been affected by wear or other conditions.